Broken and buckled surfboards are all common sight on the North Shore during the winter surf season. Almost every surfer that has the skill and mental gearing to charge the large waves that the North Shore offers has experienced breaking a board. Either on a wave or a massive white wash, the waves show their astonishing force. Students at BYU-Hawaii have shared about this unavoidable, yet never welcomed event of breaking boards.
Nate Packer, a senior in finance from California, said he has had his fair share of broken boards. “I’m just going to start by saying I’m cursed, not kidding,” Packer said. “I surf with guys who have never once broken a single board in years of surfing. I broke eight last year alone. I remember breaking my first board. It was the first time that I had taken that board out. That was like an omen, and my luck has been about the same since then.”
Packer continued, “I thought I had learned my lesson and was taking better care of my boards until last week. I took a brand new board out for its first time and it snapped in half after four waves and 40 minutes. Because of the whitewash, I wasn’t even on a wave. At this point I don’t allow myself to get attached to my boards. I see them as temporary. I don’t allow myself to really admire or fall in love with them. That way when they break, which always happens, I don’t get heartbroken. Anyways, the bonus to breaking a lot of boards is you get new boards a lot and can try new shapes all the time. That’s kind of nice, but it makes a relatively cheap hobby really expensive.”
Jared Zimmerman, a junior in finance from California, said, “To describe my feelings on breaking my last board, I'm inclined to paraphrase a quote by the great Chazz Michael Michaels, ‘No exaggeration, I couldn't love a human baby as much as I live this (board).’
“It was the first truly brand new fresh board I'd ever purchased at the time. It took me three months to save up enough money for it back on the mainland. That board was my pride and joy, kind of became a truly loyal steed made with a heart that beat to transcend the fickle obstacles produced by the outstretched arm of Poseidon himself. The day Rocky Point claimed it was a sad day indeed to see it go after all the good times,” he added.
Nick Jones, a resident board repairman, known as the “Board Dr.” to some, said, “I don’t have any experience breaking boards, but watching surfers come to me with their boards in shambles and seeing their whole demeanor, it’s a heartbreak worse than getting dumped by your girlfriend heartbreak. If you break your dream board and you don’t have insurance, you are devastated.”