A brief history of surfing Skip to main content

A brief history of surfing

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Over the years, the North Shore of Oahu has seen dramatic changes as the popularity and culture of the sport of surfing has grown by leaps and bounds. BYU-Hawaii Professor and surfer Isaiah Walker acknowledges in his book, “Waves of Resistance: Surfing and History in Twentieth-Century Hawaii,” that the origin of surfing is deeply rooted in Hawaiian culture. The recreational activity that has become a major sport today was created and practiced by ancient Hawaiian kings and chiefs. Later in the 18th century, Calvinist missionaries banned surfing until the early 20th Century when it was reintroduced, said Walker. As the American and Hawaiian cultures combined, Hawaiians began to teach the “haoles” how to surf. From this point on, Hawaiians and “haoles” have shared the water, although it has not always been without conflict. David Linhares, a Brazilian native who moved to the North Shore to pursue his dream of surfing 12 years ago, believes the violence once associated with surfing is no longer a problem. “Now, the problem in the water is all the tourist that come out and rent boards. They cause problems because they don't know what they are doing.”Another noticeable change in the North Shore, according to Linhares, is the increase in corporate sponsorships and its affects on the surfing industry. Carlos Mozo, a popular North Shore photographer living in Hauula, said he has noticed a big change in the surfing industry. “It used to be that guys just had natural talent and the companies or sponsors would help them improve. But now, parents are pushing their kids to be the best,” said MozoA major contributor to the rapid development of surfing on the North Shore is the media and photography, according to Linhares and Mozo. “Now days, everyone is taking pictures and shooting video.” The increased exposure of surfers in and out of the water makes people want to do their best all the time. “I think that has helped push the sport,” Mozo said.The sport of surfing has also gained popularity from Hollywood movies such as “Blue Crush” or the surf classic, “Endless Summer,” which has contributed to the popularity for the islands. Linhares said he believes movies attract people to Hawaii. While surf movies glorify the sport of surfing, people are also attracted to the culture associated with surfing and the islands, not just the sport itself. Linhares said he has not seen much change in the culture of the North Shore since he has lived here, and he believes that the younger generations can still connect with the guys that have been surfing for 50 years.In Walker’s book, he explains the cultural influence that surfing had on the community. “Surfing was more than just a competitive sport; it was a cultural practice embedded within the social, political and religious fabric of Hawaiian culture,” he says. The North Shore is evidence of this cultural infusion, as people still have surfing embedded into their lives just like the ancient Hawaiians.Lisa Tuttle, a former competitive surfer majoring in exercise sports science from Torrance, Calif., agreed surfing can become embedded into your life. “I love surfing. If I am ever having a bad day, surfing can change it into a good day. I love it so much. I try to surf every chance I get,” Tuttle said.
Writer: Sam Spring ~ Multimedia Journalist