Three native Hawaiian surfers embrace their surfing heritage and legacy
Three native Hawaiian surfers say surfing in Hawaii is a lifestyle intertwined with deep Hawaiian culture. Besides coming from different backgrounds, they say surfing is therapeutic, enjoyable and, most importantly, is a way to preserve their legacy for future generations.
Hawaiian legacy
Kealoha Kaio, Jr., also known as K-Boy and a community member from Laie, said he learned surfing when he was 4 years old. “I was born in the ocean, so I just love the ocean,” he shared. He said his dad was his mentor in helping him to surf. Surfing has been a major part of his life, Kaio said, as he was born in Honolulu during the 1950s and moved to Laie since then. He said he joined surfing competitions from 1963 to 1969.
Kaio said he joined multiple competitions in Makaha, Haleiwa and a couple of surf meets for members of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints around that time. He said the competition was tough back then because everyone was very good, but luckily he won third and fourth place in most of the competitions he joined.
The surfing culture was different back then because every surf spot was owned by people, Kaio explained. He said the spots were territorial, and people could get kicked out if they tried out a spot someone already owned.
Despite this, Kaio said he surfed all his life and joined many competitions around the island where he also competed against other native Hawaiian surfers. He said the legacy of surfing continues as he passes it to his growing family.
Kukahiliponoikalapukaihaehae “Pono” Murray, a junior from Maui majoring in Hawaiian Studies, said his surfing style is influenced by the great Duke Kahanamoku, who is known as the father of modern surfing in Hawaii. Another one of his influences is Cliff Kapono, who is a scientist, journalist and great surfer, he said. Murray said he has a list of people he looks up to, and all of them contributed to his interest in surfing.
Murray said surfing is a big part of perpetuating the Hawaiian culture. He said if a person is born in Hawaii, surfing is usually one of the major activities they learn while growing up. He said since this tradition is deeply ingrained in Hawaii’s culture and history, it holds a significant place in the hearts of Hawaiians.
Murray explained, “Since I was exposed to surfing in my younger years, it became something that I wanted to preserve in my life.”
Island life
Originally from Maui, Murray said he lived his island life with his family. Murray was born to a Scottish Hawaiian dad and a Filipino Hawaiian mom and said he has two older sisters and a brother. He lived what he called a typical Hawaiian life, where surfing and fishing were a major part of their family activities.
Growing up, Murray was introduced to a Hawaiian immersion program where he said he was taught the ways and culture of being Hawaii from elementary to high school. He shared he was grateful for the program because he learned how to appreciate his culture. Over time, he said he began enjoying activities like volleyball, football, basketball and hula. This active lifestyle when he was younger is one of the reasons why he appreciates how he was raised, Murray said.
Waves and culture
In his transition to his adult life, Murray said his family’s tradition of surfing and doing other active activities continued after he served his mission in the St. George Utah Mission. Their surfing bond as a family has grown and become a big hobby for all of them, he shared. Since two of Murray’s siblings live on the mainland, he said they always invite him to surf around the island when they visit.
An important lesson Murray said he learned from his parents was to carry on with the culture and tradition of being Hawaiian. Although surfing is a little part of it, he said he has been continually taught the value of his Hawaiian heritage by his parents and now as a student at BYU–Hawaii.
Murray said his transition to college life at BYUH wasn’t too difficult because he was familiar with the place and only had to adjust to meeting new people in the diverse student body. He said he has still enjoyed surfing and watching competitions on the North Shore. His first spot to surf around the community was at Castle Beach, but now he said he switches to different places around Oahu.
While studying at BYUH, Murray shared, “Surfing became therapeutic to me because the sounds of the waves help me calm down and relax.” He said he loves to surf with groups of friends, but he also likes to surf by himself to meditate and enjoy his peace. Whenever he takes time to surf throughout the week, he said he feels rejuvenated.
Murray also said surfing has been a good opportunity for him to get to know new people. He began making friends as he continued to talk with people and get along with them through surfing, he said. “Surfing became a way for me to network with people and know which country they are visiting from.”
James Miller, a community member from Laie, said he met Murray at Castle Beach. He said their small conversation while surfing led to a burgeoning friendship. As their friendship developed, Miller said they ended up working together as dancers at the Polynesian Cultural Center. They saw each other at work and sometimes hung out with friends, but he said their surfing sessions together with other friends were some of the most fun times they spent together.
