Hawaii is the birthplace of surfing, with Oahu’s North Shore full of beaches international surfers come to shred.
Otherwise known as the “Seven Mile Miracle,” the North Shore is home to the Pipeline, Rocky Point, Waimea Bay, and Turtle Bay. Brothers Colby and Brady Hollingsworth grew up surfing in southern California. Colby’s favorite place to surf here is Castles, because “the waves are really big and you can catch a lot of massive, long stretches.”
Surfing has been one of his passions for many years because “it is a stress reliever and you don’t feel anything. You’re completely immersed in the elements and your mind is completely clear.”
Majoring in business, Brady has been surfing since he was 12 years old, but did not take it up seriously until his junior and senior years of high school. Since coming to BYU–Hawaii, Brady’s favorite place to surf is at Turkey Bowl, because the waves are big and hollow. When asked why he surfs, Brady said, “Why do you like food? Surfing is the best stress reliever, and is one of the easiest ways to forget everything.”
Vance Exstrom, a sophomore majoring in business from California, also has a favorite place to surf. “I like backyards because they have shallow, section waves that are super fun.” Vance, Colby and Brady are all friends and love to go surfing together whenever they have free time.
Although Oahu has become an icon for many professional surfers, there are many spots that have smaller waves and are perfect for beginners. Some such spots on the North Shore include Puaena Point, Chun’s Reef, Kawela Bay, and Turtle Bay.
Kaili Nelson, a freshman majoring in exercise science from Texas, has been surfing for one month. Although she has not been surfing for long, she has grown to love Turtle Bay because “the waves are really fun, and you can ride them for a long time if you catch the right wave.”
She said she has met a lot of people out surfing who helped her progress. “I have met so many awesome people out surfing that have given me tips on how to surf better. Every time I got out someone is there to tell me where the good waves are.”