As the wave approached, Race McBride recalls glancing over his shoulder to see his buddies cheering him on. In the distance, he heard them yelling, “Go, go, go!” With that, he was off. Shifting his board to face the shoreline, he started to paddle, his arms cutting through the water until he was taken by the wave. Suddenly, McBride said he saw the world around him in slow motion as he grazed his fingers along the barreling wave.
Waves like no other
McBride, a sophomore from California studying marketing, said he had been surfing for seven years in California before moving to Hawaii. Although the waves in Hawaii are different from the ones in California, McBride said he was excited for the move.
He expressed, “The waves [in Hawaii] are unlike anywhere else in the world and will make you or break you. I feel like Hawaii has definitely improved my surfing and has helped me charge bigger waves than I ever would back home.”
McBride recalled his most memorable surfing experience. He said, “The waves were 8 to 10 feet high and barreling. I remember seeing a set come in and getting nervous, and only hearing my friends yell, ‘Go go go!’ When your buddy calls you into a wave like that, you go.”
He said he took off on the water and the next thing he knew, he was riding the wave and everything around him went into slow motion. “I put my hand into the wave by me and pulled in for the best barrel of my life. I will never forget that wave.”
Self-taught surfer
No one can really teach you how to surf, McBride said. “It’s more of going out in the water and learning through trial and error,” he added. Learning to surf by a harbor in California, McBride said he developed a love and passion for the sport.
McBride advised people to stick with the sport and to keep getting up despite failures. He expressed, “Surfing is really hard and requires dedication. Stick with it for the first three months of paddling and looking for waves, and you’ll be rewarded generously.”
He advised Castles Beach on the North Shore is where beginners should go. “The sandbar on the North Shore is where intermediate surfers will have the most fun, and the Pipeline is where legends are made in the water.”
Surfing etiquette in Hawaii
Surfing is not just about catching waves. There are rules and regulations to consider. According to the article “Surfing Etiquette” published by Outdoor Hawaii, surfing the North Shore requires knowledge of the areas, locals and rules while riding the waves.
The article said Hawaii is a very provincial state where locals feel a deep connection and ownership of their land. So, if outsiders don’t show appreciation for nature, it may cause feelings of resentment.
Following the proper protocols will help people enjoy surfing in the best location in the world, the article continued. It went on to say that newcomers should wait their turn and get a feel for the water before launching into the lineup. It also suggested getting help from experienced surfers if people are feeling unsure.